tire question for cyclist

I may have a few hundred miles on my bike. 

I notice last week the front tire was low and didn't seem to hold air like back tire.

Today, the back tire was ok, but the front one is down to 20# of pressure.

I'm going to take it to the bike shop and just get a new inner tube put in.  Isn't that the wisest thing to do?  I don't have anyone to call if I have a flat out in the middle of nowhere,

You should get a flat repair kit and frame pump if you're going to be riding out in the middle of nowhere.  Both of those can be found at Wal-Mart and bike shops.  You should also probably get a few spare tubes.

It's not that hard to fix a flat, but it takes a little practice so start now instead of taking it to the bike shop!  If you don't have anyone to call when you get a flat in the middle of nowhere, you're not going to be able to get it to the bike shop either!  Also, make sure your tire is centered between your brakes when you put it back on, otherwise your brakes will wear unevenly.

I don't really have any advice, but this morning I had to go rescue my Dad because he was out for a ride and the tube in his back tire burst.  Luckily he was going pretty slow at the time so he didn't get hurt or anything, but I had to go pick up my poor stranded father haha

sneakyTT.  I've always thought I should know how, but doubt my ability.  I ride up to 30# (roundtrip) and figured I'd just push my bike back to my car (eek, 15 miles???), or walk home and get my car/rack if it happens around home.   I can't even imagine what it'd be like changing a back tire.

I carry a cell with me, but don't always have a tower nearby.

I try to watch out for glass, etc. in roads, but doubt I see every hazard laying there.

thanks.

slime tires are a good option too, if you get a gash though messy to change. but they are good for thorns and such seal themselves right up. you can also go co2 route instead of pump. just a few ideas. i do agree with sneaky every cyclist should know how to change their tires. once you do it a few times it is not that hard!

heather:  I'll check out those tires next time.  thanks

Went to bike shop.  I did have a small leak and they put a new inner tube on.  I bought, to carry with me:

• patches
• levers
• spare tube
• CO2 (does that tiny canister fill a tire?)

Besides the bike itself I've spent plenty on accessories but I think I'm all set for now.

Except I want a big square tote to put on the rack behind me, to put stuff in.

yeah one will fill a tire. did you buy the co2 air chuck also to put it in? glad you did that. it will make you feel better and relax a little knowing you will be fine!!! yeah

Yes, the pk had the holder and co2 cannister.  $20 bucks for that.  The directions said not to over inflate tire (which I know not to do) but I don't have a tire gauge to carry.  I'm assuming that I can tell by feeling or eyeing the tire if it's at least inflated enough to get me to safety.

that's another reason I like riding on paved bike trails.  All the ones I've seen are clean and free of debris, unlike the highways and gravel trails.

Going under one bridge, which I have to pass all the time, there's a pass-thru for cyclist, but its so full of debris and broken glass that I just stay on the road.

Flat kit: 3 tire levers (the kind that hook onto your spokes), a spare tube, a patch kit (in case I flat twice), and a Topeak Road Morph pump. I have a piece of duct tape on the lid of the patch kit to use for a boot.

behanna. 

My shop didn't have a kit, so I bought my stuff separately. 

what do you mean by; "piece of duct tape on the lid of the patch kit to use for a boot"  ???

thanks

Most of time a flat is caused by a punctured tube, either a "pinch flat" from hitting a hole or stone, etc. or a piece of glass, wire, or other debris works it's way through the tire and punctures the tube.  But sometimes a tire fails either from a cut or too much wear.  When this happens you have a hole in your tire so you can't just patch/replace the tube.  You need to repair the tire with a "boot" which is something you use to keep the tube in place while you head home or to the nearest bike shop for a new tire.  Duct tape inside the tire covering the area of hole works well.  So does US money.  I've even used a piece of Styrofoam cup I found in a ditch near by when I didn't have anything else with me.

You should always carry a tire changing kit and know how to change your tires.  Practice at home so when you need to do it on the road you are ready for it because you will have a flat one day.  CO2 cartages are rated by maximum inflation capacity by tire type.  Make sure you have the right cartridges for your tires and you won't have to worry about whether they are over or under inflated when you change them on the road.  I always carry a new tube as well as a patch kit and extra cartridges so I can repair more than one flat if necessary.  I prefer the CO2 inflator to a frame pump with the exception of the fact that I can only repair as many flats as I have CO2 for but I also carry a small Presta to Schrader adapter so I can inflate from a standard pump if necessary.

As trhawley said, learning to change it yourself is best - that way you can do it if you get caught out.

I have a small bag that holds a tire, and the levers and I bought a closeout travel pump so I don't have to mess with the CO2.

There are scads of how-tos online for doing it.  My local shop does free roadside maintenance classes. It was nice to be in a room of people as new to it as me, and the collective "Aha" gasps were kind of funny.

aha :)  thanks Trawley now I understand about the duct tape.

my tires are the Schrader kind of tube so I don't think I'd need an adapter.  Maybe I will pick up a 2nd co2 cartridge just for a spare.

oh I suppose I should have paid attention when the guy was changing my tire.  I guess I'll have to learn. The front looks easier than the back.  I'll read up on it.

endrju:  I don't think we have any roadside class around here, but I will read online.  thanks.  With my luck there would be no one around to lend a hand.

I'm keeping a very good eye on my tread and the minute I think its showing wear I'll get a new tire.

As trhawley wrote, a "boot" is just a patch for the hole in the tire. On road bikes, with pressures often up to 120psi, if you don't patch the tire, the new tube can herniate itself through the cut in your tire and BANG, you have another flat tire.

ohio45.

http://bicycletutor.com/fix-flat-tire/ & nbsp; This might help.  Check the comments if you need a hand getting the wheels off.   I want to stress you should run through a mock trial at home. Remove everything, and put it back.  That'll make a huge difference the first time it happens to you.  Most of us won't notice that extra weight from the tube and inflation device and all, but if you are 'in the middle of nowhere', you'll be happy you can be on the road again in less than half and hour (I am a pokey changer), rather than fuming in your own frustration and anxiety -- not that that has happened to me. ;)

 

endrju:  I learned how to replace the entire inside of toilets and it wasn't that hard.  Living alone, I never hesitated to tackle any repair.  But, several times I sat down and cried in the middle of projects.  So I guess I could learn to fix a tire.  Trails around here are more crowded on weekends, so I go during the week, which lessens my chances of anyone helping.  I'm just going back to the bike store and hanging around till then have to change a tire and will watch them.  Will go read the url you sent.  In fact, may print it off and carry with me.

I know I should do it at home, but I dread it.  thanks.

Don't sweat it--it really is very easy. It's easiest to start de-mounting the tire on the side opposite the stem. Take one bead off completely, then take the 2nd bead off opposite the stem, and the entire tire and tube will easily peel off the rim at that point.

When reassembling, I find it best to smooth the new tube into the tire and inflate it by a pound or so, then deflate it again. Start by putting the valve stem back in the rim, with one tire bead in the center of the rim. Work the bead around the rim with your hands, then start working the other bead. Be very careful that you do not pinch the new tube between the rim and the tire bead! That's the part that can screw you, leaving you with a freshly-installed, punctured tube.

On wide rims with low rim walls, you can usually roll the tire into place with your hands. On contemporary road bike rims, with higher rim walls, you may need to (*carefully*) coax that last bit of bead over the rim with a tire lever--make sure the tube is tucked up inside the tire first!

Now, with both beads in the rim, pinch the tire, turn the wheel, pinch the tire, turn the wheel, and so on, until you have gone the whole way around, inspecting to make sure the tube is completely inside the tire--you should not see any of it peeking out from under the bead.

At this point, you can now safely reinflate the tire with reasonable insurance that you're not going to pop a pinched tube.

Afield, if you are doing this with a flat, make sure you find the hole in the tire, and slap a piece of duct tape over it on the inside of the tire before re-mounting the tire, to prevent the above-mentioned herniated tube.

behanna;  the above was very helpful, thank you.  I'm guessing that "bead" is the edge of the tire which goes inside the rim.  I've seem the bike shop guys going around the rim with their hands and didn't know what they were doing, but now understand..

Is the back tire harder to put on since it goes next to the gears?  Is there anything special to be aware of? 

The bead is that raised lip on the tire that grabs the inside edge of the rim (which has a ridge of its own) when you inflate the tire.

Foldable tires (kevlar bead) go on and off MUCH more easily than wire-bead (non-foldable) tires.

The gears on the back don't matter--you'll have removed the wheel anyway, and the rim width and profile are the same as for the front wheel. In either case, you want to lay the bike down on its left side, so you don't put weight on the rear derailleur (which can bend it).

Tip for the rear: shift to the smallest rear cog before removing the rear wheel (pedal with your hands to get the gear to change while you hold the back of the bike up). It's much easier to get the chain re-engaged when you put the wheel back on that way.

behanna:  wow, thank you SO much for all this info.

thanks to everyone else.  I feel much more confident about this now.